London Collections: Men – Day One (part 2)


At Hentsch Man it was the models, not the clothes that made an initial impact. Quirky and diverse, the select trio (ticking all the ‘quirky’ boxes with piercings, tattooed eyelids and facial hair) made an immediate statement. The choco-mallow brew we were then handed was as a PR masterstroke: juggling the steaming cups, the brandishing of iPhones had to wait as we were forced to digest the self-consciously individual personality of this label. The models seamlessly embodied the edited collection we then shuffled through to view: understated, cool, with the urban softened by knits and prints.
Hentsch Man is Californian in origin but something about this collection felt quintessentially British. Despite the odd pop of a coloured trouser (burnt oranges and mustard colours were a favourite) designers Alexis and Max showcased muted greys and monochrome geometrics. Alicia Luba, intern


Photos: Getty
Perhaps the most prominent emerging trend from day one of London Collections: Men is simplicity, and this season Shoreditch boutique Mr Start was bang on trend. The front rowers were immaculately suited and booted – none of that novelty ‘rif-raff’ here – and the models were very much a reflection of this.
Moving away from the classic tailoring that the brand excels at, Mr Start showed more than just good suiting. Highlights were heavy belted coats in the finest speckled wool and paper thin, yet beautiful, knits coming in every autumnal colour conceivable; oxblood, evergreen, navy and camel to name but a few. Mr Start did not totally abandon its tailoring background, but merely updated it with a moleskin suit in dark olive, a single-breasted two piece in a Prince of Wales check and beautifully cut dinner jacket in midnight blue shot taffeta. With a hint of European chic, Mr Start gets a thumbs up from us. Sophie Warburton, stylist and co-ordinator


Agi & Sam chose Beethoven and Blur for their A/W’13 MAN-sponsored show tunes, perfect for the aristocrat-meets-farmer male their collection symbolises. Think tweed, neat puffa gilets, brogues with bright rubber Wellington boot casing, vibrant yellow flat caps and micro patterned silky suits. Accessories-wise, Agi & Sam fans will need ginger hair, stuck-on sideburns, gentlemanly umbrellas and a basset hound or two to channel the show looks. Oh, and as the Fashion East show also saw Father Christmas (an older, white haired model) walk the runway, the eclectic collection is suitable for all age ranges. Alice Newbold, contributor

MAN show higlights and a look by Craig Green (top right). Photos: Getty


Astrid Andersen is living the dream for the new wave of male hipsters enthusiastic about old school sportswear. Making the sports aesthetic more about vanity than agility, her A/W ’13 MAN-sponsored collection offers up lavender, black and gold for its colour palette, with a sovereign ring print for its jersey basics. The designer’s name filtered down many a smart trackie bottom leg in block baseball font, with Fila trainers keeping her designs company. Models toted a metallic green lower lip to show this sportswear wouldn’t be getting sweaty anytime soon. Alice Newbold, contributor


Ronnie Wood and his new belle Sally Humphreys showed a public display of affection at Topman; see which other stars have been gracing the shows here

Photo: Reuters


Photos: Getty
Lee Roach isn’t known for his flamboyant style and this season’s showing was no different. Minimalism doesn’t quite stretch as far as Roach’s paired back aesthetic. Structured lapel-less jackets varied in length, paired with seemingly uniform tailored trousers in either black, navy or white. Seamless wool blazers gradually turned into ‘single-puff’ puffa jackets, still with tailored trousers and Chelsea boots.
Reflective, glittery tabs were slowly introduced on trouser legs and jacket sleeves while parachute style fastenings remained as standard. Roach’s no-frills approach to industrial techno tailoring left nowhere to hide, and luckily for him, nowhere was needed. Sophie Warburton, stylist and co-ordinator


Photo: Getty
After a hatless morning, this blog’s favourite favourite subject – David Gandy, of course – suddenly slipped on a fedora for the Lou Dalton show. Indoor hat-wearing? What’s all that about? Plus we hear from our Fulham spy that Gandy wears a flatcap inside his local pub too. At the Topman Design show (where that hat was still firmly on) we asked if the pub tip was on the money. “Absolutely,” he said: “and I’ve got a cap for tonight. It’s because I’ve got outrageously uncontrollable hair and now that people recognise me when I go out, if I can’t be bothered to do it [tame his hair] it’s cap on or hat on, a big chunky knit, and I’m good to go.” So there you are. Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor.



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