T’s senior market editor rounds up the most memorable happenings both on and off the runways.
It’s a Barbie world
Jeremy Scott set the shock-value bar high in February when he sent SpongeBob SquarePants and Ronald McDonald down Moschino’s fall/winter 2014 runway. So the Barbies he created for spring/summer 2015 were anything but startling. With attention-seeking street-style stars already donning the pink leather Moto jacket and skirt and flashing the mirror iPhone case, it’s clear many of his fans are excited to dress like their childhood style icons.
A Pharrell performance
The fashion set let loose on Saturday night at a Pharrell Williams concert. The man about town performed nearby at Mediolanum Forum, where some editors took a break from the fashion circuit to just let loose and get happy.
The new Jil Sander
Finally, the Jil Sander label, after being plagued by the departure of Raf Simons and its namesake designer, has found the right fit in its newest creative director: the former Vionnet designer Rodolfo Paglialunga, whose debut collection was the talk of Milan fashion week. Honoring the house’s minimalist codes, Paglialunga turned out a collection worthy of the name’s heritage. Looking forward to seasons to come!
A denim revival
It was hard to ignore the presence of denim this season in Milan. It was on almost every major runway (Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Tod’s) and even on the front row, where buyers and editors alike began to take styling cues from the spring/summer 2015 collections and began donning their best denim duds at the shows.
Gemma Ward’s grand entrance at Prada
On Thursday, Gemma Ward opened Prada’s spring 2015 runway — her first runway since 2008. Historically, Prada’s model casting informs who the It girl of the season will be, and editors are abuzz at the possibility of Ward’s big comeback.
Jenna Lyons: supermodel
The signature style of Jenna Lyons — oversized glasses, tomboy pieces layered into ladylike looks, side-parted ponytails — made its way to Milan. As the DSquared2 collection came down the runway, not a single American editor could resist doing a double take: the models looked just like J.Crew’s New York-based creative director. The designers said, though, that their real inspiration was art in motion.
Not just another Salvatore Ferragamo shoe
There was a moment in Milan that had everybody saying, “Oh no, they didn’t!” And that moment was at Salvatore Ferragamo, when the Italian house brought its iconic rainbow platforms back to the runway. They kept the original shoe, designed in 1938 for Judy Garland, intact — but changed the color scheme, creating an all-black and all-beige version. The new style is sure to be an instant classic yet again.
Prada’s purple dunes
Miuccia Prada’s runway set designs are always just as anticipated as her collections. And this season was no disappointment: images of her vast Milan show space — covered with glistening, lilac-colored sand dunes — created an Instagram frenzy on Thursday. As the models circled around the mounds, though, the romantic clothes began to take center stage.
Marni’s one-day flower extravaganza
On the same day as its flower-filled spring 2015 fashion show, Marni hosted a popup flower market at the Rotonda della Besana. The free and open-to-the-public affair was a nice respite from runway hopping on the last day of Milan Fashion Week. Visitors took away colorful blooms and potted herbs in custom-designed shopping bags and bouquet wrapping papers, printed with the house’s signature patterns.
Source : T MAGAZINE